One of the most ideal solutions for people who love gardening but are encountering problems due to natural elements such as climate and space is indoor organic gardening. This is because indoor organic gardening can be done despite space limitations and weather hindrances as long as you know how to do it properly.

You can conduct research about it because this will definitely help you achieve success especially if you are new with the craft. You can also read agriculture and gardening books or magazines that can be found in most bookstores. Browsing the Internet and visiting various web sites that contain information about indoor organic gardening can also enrich your initial knowledge on it.

If you are having thoughts on starting organic gardening, you should focus on the following aspects:

• Crop selection. Since you are doing indoor organic gardening, there are limitations to the type of crop that can be planted. If you are doing indoor organic gardening, you cannot just plant whatever you want because chances are, these will not grow properly. Make sure that you first assess the natural conditions of the site before choosing the plants you wish to grow. Also, ensure that you don’t buy a large quantity of many seeds because there is no guarantee that you can plant them all.
• Soil selection. Since soil serves as the lifeline of the crop because this is where it will get all the nutrients it needs, make sure that you know which type of soil you can use. Soil selection is very important in indoor organic gardening because this will determine the success or failure of your project. It is very significant to know which is the most suitable soil for you to ensure the success of your crop. For starters, opt for clay because experts say that this is the most ideal to used regardless of weather conditions.
• Source of water or water supply. This is also very important because water is very vital for any plant production. Make sure that you have a sufficient amount of water available nearby to keep the crop alive and well. If you don’t have a natural source of water, you can store some water for the crops only.

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Many people do not realize that house plants need extra care in the winter. Some plants may go dormant for a short while but others just need a little TLC.

If your house plant lives in a sunny window, you may want to move it 6″ from the window. One touch of your fingers to that window glass will tell you just how cold it is outside. Any leaves in constant contact with that cold will not do well at all. Your house plants can be decimated by a cold draft as well.

The air in your house becomes dry in the winter from running your heater. Doesn’t your own skin feel a little dry? The answer is not to water more often although you may need to do that also. The real answer is to mist the plant at least once a day.

It is important that your house plant leaves are clean.

Before you start misting those plants, be sure you gently dust the leaves. Smooth leaves can be dusted with a soft cloth – no furniture polish please. Fuzzy leaves such as the African Violet can be dusted with a small paint brush.

Plants breathe through their leaves and a layer of dust can be suffocating. Plants really should have their leaves dusted at least once a week. Hanging plants like the beautiful Spider do well with a monthly shower to clean their leaves. Make sure you use a gentle spray of water. Philodendron leaves can be cleaned with a solution of milk and water – very light on the milk. It will make the leaves shine.

If you have the space try putting a layer of rock in a pan – an old cake pan or pizza pan – fill the pan with water and set your house plants on top of the rocks. Instant humidity. If you don’t have space for a pan, set out some decorative vases filled with water.

You may just find that your own skin is feeling a little less dry.

Check the light your house plant is receiving. Days are shorter and you may need to supplement with artificial light if your plants are looking a little SAD.

All plants need a resting period so stop the fertilizer for a couple of months. Trim off any yellowing leaves.

Now is also a good time to start thinking about new pots for the spring. You don’t want a root bound plant. Without the natural interaction that outside plants get, house plants can become impacted in the dirt.

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The calming beauty of a fern or the dramatic statement of a palm tree – the plants we choose to decorate our homes both compliment our decor and provide a refreshing spot of life in an otherwise static environment.

If you are trying to decide which type of plants will both suit your home and your life there are three points to take into consideration.

Safety

Philodendron and ivy are popular houseplants because of their beautiful coloration, attractive leaves and low maintenance. However, some varieties of these beauties are just a sample of plants that are incredibly poisonous to humans or animals when eaten.

If you have children or animals in the home or as visitors you are wise to take the time to investigate which plants are harmful and which are not. Some plants do not even have to be eaten to be harmful, so it is well worth avoiding them if possible.

Whether or not you choose to have poisonous plants in your home it is always a good idea to keep them out of the reach of children and pets as well as have the name of the plant clearly identified in case of an emergency.

Light and Temperature

If you are new to plant care or simply don’t want to spend more time than necessary to care for your plants you need to match your plant choice to the light and temperature environment in your home.

As a rule of thumb, cactus and other succulent plant varieties need a great deal of sunlight and warmth. While direct sun – especially intensified through a window – is not good for any houseplants, you will want a south or west exposure with plenty of light for the best results when choosing these plants.

Flowering plants also require good sunlight, although not as much as succulents. If you do not have a bright room for your flowering plants they may survive but not flower as frequently or at all.

Foliage without flowers often does well in lower light areas. Ferns, ivy and some palms are examples of plants that often do well away from windows and bright sun.

If your home is very dry, especially during the winter, you may need to spray your plants with a mist of water to provide the humidity they need to thrive.

Many nurseries provide information on a tag when you purchase a plant. Use the information on these tags to identify plants that will do best in your home environment.

Appearance

Plants come in such a wide variety of colors, shapes and sizes that it is easy to find a plant that suits your taste and decor.

Delicate foliage like ferns and ivies look great in traditional decors while simple, stunning palms and other tropicals stand out in modern or Mediterranean decors.

Grouping plants can provide an attractive vignette in an empty corner or near a window, but be careful not to overdo it or your home may begin to look more like a greenhouse than a home.

Check your plants regularly for changes in appearance – brown or yellowed tips which may mean over or under watering, as well as spots, holes or changes in color that could mean disease or infestation. If you suspect either you should immediately separate that plant from the others to avoid contamination. When bringing new plants home set them aside for a week or so until you are sure they are not contaminated before putting them near your other plants.

You are sure to enjoy the addition of plants to your home, whether you intend to devote a lot of time to them or as little as possible. Choosing wisely will make your new additions both beautiful to look at and a pleasure to care for.

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Bonsai trees are intriguing with their twisted and unusual shapes and it is not surprising to learn that this delicate art originated over a thousand years ago in China. In fact, Chinese bonsai masters would practice their art, known as pun-sai on trees for decades and often pass down the skill to their sons.

These ancient artists took great pride in the sculpting of their trees often shaping them into images of real animals as well as birds and even sometimes mythical beasts such as dragons. While we see bonsai trees twisted and sculpted into their flowing forms today and think they are quite beautiful, one can only imagine how awe inspiring these trees shaped into the form of animals must be.

During the 12th century, the art of bonsai migrated to Japan where it evolved into one of the highest skilled arts. Practiced at first in the monasteries, it was well suited to the cloistered monks and scholars who practice the art with the patience and intricate skill it required. These beautiful trees were highly revered and often times the nobility regarded bonsai trees as treasured objects.

During the 19th century, bonsai art became known to the general public and as Japan began to trade with the Western world this beautiful form of agricultural art drew the attention of travelers and tradesmen. Soon, the bonsai was exhibited in many Western museums and bonsai art became very popular in the big cities such as Paris and London. In fact the 1900 Paris World Exhibition included bonsai trees.

While many of the bonsai trees of today are not as old or beautiful as those ancient trees in China and Japan it is still a highly skilled art that requires years to learn and much patience. Miniature bonsai trees can be found in many homes and offices and there are many modern-day hobbyists that are quite proud of their skill.

Bonsai artists are still practicing their art today and these trees are still much revered. While modern times have brought on new forms of this living art, the ancient forms still persevere. Bonsai trees can be seen displayed around the world in Asia, the United States, Europe and Australia as well as anyplace where the many varieties of trees used in bonsai art can grow.

As modern times march on, this ancient art will always be practiced but perhaps with a unique twist and new forms of sculpting created by the modern artists.

Rex Begonias make hardy and showy houseplants, needing little but a light, warm room. Some have gorgeous flowers, but those grown mainly for their leaves make the best indoor plants. They succeed in a poorly lit area that others won’t tolerate. Rex Begonias have large heart-shaped leaves of various colors and markings. Some have patches of silver, crimson or maroon on metallic green leaves, with the underneath part velvety red.

Begonia Masoniana or Iron Cross Begonia has smaller leaves with nearly black, cross-shaped markings on them. All begonias need to be kept moist in both summer and winter and their minimum temperature is about 7 degrees Celsius.

Chlorophytum, rheoe, tradescantia and zebrina are all hardy houseplants; thrive in poorly lit areas and with minimum temperature requirements of 7 degrees Celsius. All have attractive leaves of creams, whites, pinks and purples and some are striped. They are trailing in habit and need to be watered freely, but don’t let Rheoe get too wet. Feed every 2-3 weeks with a weak soluble fertilizer solution.

If red spider mites attack your indoor plants, sponge the leaves with a weak milk and water solution to which has been added some white oil emulsion.

Ferns are hardy houseplants that require very little attention. They like to grow with their roots crowded, so don’t need re-potting very often. They will benefit from being occasionally left outside on a rainy day to thoroughly saturate the roots and wash the leaves clear of dust. The Mother Spleenwort, Asplenium bulbiferum is a great houseplant so long as the air is not too dry. The fronds are delicate and graceful and sometimes you’ll find tiny plantlets on the upper surface.

Maidenhair ferns are also most attractive with their black stems and bright green tiny leaves that seem to shiver with the slightest air current. Blechnum gibbum makes a plume of fronds on a short stem and is decidedly attractive in spite of an ugly name.

The davallias are all lovely ferns for indoors. D. canariensis and D. pyxidata are both known as Hare’s-foot ferns. Their shiny fronds are finely divided and grow from brown, furry stems that seem to hug the ground.

The Fishbone Fern has many handsome varieties with a feature of the fronds being its ladder-like growth habit, while the Cretan Brake, Pteris cretica, also has several varieties with narrow, ribbon-fronds that can be crested, waved, variegated or divided.

While many evergreen plants will benefit from having their leaves sponged, those with a velvety texture need to have the dust removes by brushing rather than sponging, which could harm the delicate surface of the leaf.

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Houseplants add a refreshing charm to interior décor. In the dead of winter when there is not much greenery around, they remind us that spring will come again. Even in the warmer months they will make a welcome splash of color throughout the house.

While not suitable for permanent indoor living, some plants can come inside for a short time if they are then taken back outside to a greenhouse or some spot that suits their needs, to recover.

One of these is the Croton. You will find a great variety of color and leaf form in these attractive plants. Some might be green with wide yellow stripes; the foliage of others can be rose, red, copper and bronze. The leaves may be smooth, twisted, broad or narrow, so there is something to suit all indoor color schemes.

Similar in needs is the Aphendandra, also known as the Zebra Plant because it has a striped pattern on the glossy green leaves. Its sprays of yellow flowers are not as attractive as the leaves, for which the plant is valued.

Both need a light position and a minimum winter temperature of 55 F degrees (13C). They need to be fed a weak solution of liquid fertilizer in the summer months and should be kept moist at all times. Most indoor plants dislike drafts, or temperatures that fluctuate widely.

Bromeliads can be grown as indoor plants. They don’t like sunlight and are mostly epiphytic – drawing their nutrients from the air and water. Those that grow in a rosette shape with a central cup need to have this filled with water regularly. In many bromeliads this central cup or vase is the striding part, being colored a deep rose red or carmine. Others have either stiff or pendulous spikes of flowers that are very showy. Pot them into rather small pots, as their rooting system is not significant. A fibrous potting mix such as is used for orchids will suit them and they may benefit from fortnightly applications of half-strength liquid fertilizer.

Marantas are an especially attractive houseplant with velvety green leaves that have a deep red veining pattern. They like warm humid conditions and must be kept out of direct sunlight. 13 degrees centigrade is their preferred minimum temperature. Maranta leuconeura is a particularly beautiful variety.

Calatheas are related to the Maranta and require the same conditions. Their leaves are a blotchy green on top with purple undersides. Calathea Makoyana, or peacock Plant is one variety that is deservedly popular. Marentas and Calatheas like a peat-based compost for their pots and a minimum of 13 degrees Centigrade.

There are many more houseplants to delight the keen indoor plant enthusiast. Some can take a lower indoor temperature and less light than those mentioned above. A good rule of thumb is that the darker green the leaf is the less light a plant needs. Never let dust build up on the leaves of your indoor plants. Brush them regularly with a soft brush, or sponge with a weak milk and water solution.

Every room in your home can benefit from the addition of a houseplant or two. Not only are plants good for the air in your home, they also soften the hard lines of furnishings and bring a feeling of life into the home.

Many people purchase plants from the store or nursery, place it in a pot and water it once a week. Perhaps you have done this and are discouraged by poor growth or dying plants. What can you do to develop a green thumb?

Quite often it is a simple matter of improper potting which leads to problems of over-watering or limited growth. Before you bring your next plant home consider these three steps for potting beautiful, long lasting houseplants.

Proper drainage

Potted plants do not have the benefit of natural soil drainage that occurs in their native habitat. Because of this plants can easily become water logged which leads to root rot. When roots rot and can no longer take nutrients from the soil the plant will develop limp leaves and yellowed tips.

Part of the solution is providing proper drainage for your plants. If you are using a pot with drainage holes you will need to place a dish under it to catch the excess water. If you are planting in a pot with no holes put a level of gravel in the bottom where water can drain and be used by the plant as needed.

Allowing soil to dry out between waterings is better than over-watering. Check soil by inserting your finger at least one inch into the soil. You can also look for the soil to pull away from the sides of the pot or look dry on the surface. If water is accumulating in the drainage dish and not reabsorbing you need to dump the excess water out.

Proper soil

Houseplants require different soil than outdoor plants. A lighter, rich soil should be used and can be purchased at your local nursery or where you buy plants. If it is not identified on the package ask an attendant to help you find the right one.

Along with allowing for proper drainage this lighter soil has the right balance of fertilizer for your houseplants. You will need to choose soil based on whether you have flowering or non-flowing plants.

Size and style

Planting your houseplant in a pot that is too small will restrict the roots and stunt the growth of your plant. Choose a pot that gives ample room for roots to spread as well as space for water to accumulate without rotting the roots.

As for the appearance of the pot, select one that is proportionate to the size of the plant so it does not look overwhelmed. The material of your pot is also important since natural materials like clay will absorb water from the soil. This can damage carpets or furnishings when it is in contact with these surfaces. It will also mean more watering since the water will evaporate through the pot.

Choosing glazed, metal or plastic pots will reduce watering needs but will also require more diligence to check the soil is dry between waterings to avoid over-watering.

You will cultivate beautiful and long lasting plants by taking time to pot them properly as soon as you bring them home.

Few subjects in bonsai care are as complicated as watering. What should be the simplest task is actually the most complex. Improper watering is the most common cause of death of bonsai trees. In fact, apprentices in Japan will perform many other duties during their first few years before being trusted to water the trees.

Bonsai soil is unlike regular potting material. It is porous and allows very rapid drainage. As a result, frequent and generous watering is necessary. However, over watering is just as dangerous to the bonsai’s health. Too much water can promote the growth of harmful fungi and lead to root rot.

Both of these damaging extremes can be avoided, though. By following these tips, the complex art of bonsai watering can be converted to a healthy practice that anyone can accomplish.

The first step is testing the soil moisture content to determine how much water your bonsai needs. As a quick check, touch the surface with your thumb. If the surface feels dry, it is. Gently scrape back any ground cover, gravel, or surface dirt to better assess the soils requirements.

A more accurate test can be completed easily by using a standard moisture gauge. Appearing like an ordinary thermometer, analog or digital displays will provide an accurate reading of soil moisture content.

Moisture gauges only detect water near the tip; so as a result, only tell part of the story. Dry spots can be present within the pot. Dry spots are especially dangerous if they are near the roots. As roots spread throughout the pot over time that can be a lot of places.

To ensure that all of the soil is adequately moistened, once a month dip the pot up to the base of the tree into a container of water for a few minutes. Carefully remove by lifting by the pot, never by the tree. If the soil is correct, and the plant is not root bound, any excess water will drain out the bottom of the pot into the tray under the pot.

Only permit a small amount of water to remain in the tray. Draining excess water from the tray will ensure that any extra water in the pot has a place to go, and doesn’t collect around the roots.

Water daily, making sure that water runs all the way to the bottom, but doesn’t pool to the extent of filling up the tray. Water left standing in the tray makes it impossible for the pot to drain and encourages mold growth.

More than daily watering may be required depending on the type of soil in the pot and your climate. The amount of water necessary also varies from one species to another.

Pines and other conifers need less water and they do well with moderate drying periods. Deciduous and flowering trees require more moisture than conifers. Curled leaves on deciduous trees indicate dryness. Make sure that flowers are not wilting when they should be blooming.

Some experimentation, accompanied by careful monitoring, will be necessary to adjust to your specific tree and circumstances.

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Transplanting is one of the easiest, yet most dreaded, aspects of growing houseplants. All you really need to do is remember a few basic rules and your houseplant will most likely survive and in fact thrive in its new home.

Most plants like to be cozy in their pots, so don’t transplant unless it’s necessary – you know that the plant has out grown it’s pot, it hasn’t grown for a few years, has had a mealy bug infestation and recovered, or is just going into a new pot that matches your home decor better.

The best indicator that a plant has out grown it’s home is the sight of roots growing out of the bottom of the pot. If your pot has no drainage holes for the roots to grow out of, you may have to turn the plant over and gently tap the pot against a counter or sink and the plant should slide right out. If you see overcrowded roots – lots of roots and very little dirt – it’s time to replant that baby into a larger pot.

The first step is to get a larger pot, one that is about two inches wider in diameter than the present pot. It’s important not to put the plant into a pot that is too large. Plants like to feel safe and cozy in their pots, one that is too large can cause the roots to spread out and fall apart, while the foliage remains very small and may wither and die.

Make sure the new pot has drainage holes. You may need to drill some if the container is metal, or use a nail and a hammer to punch holes if the pot is plastic. If you cannot make any drainage holes in the pot – it’s made of porcelain or something similar – you will need to fill up the container at least one- fourth of the way with broken clay pot chips and charcoal. This will absorb and evaporate water so your plant won’t get root rot. For pots with drainage holes, all you need to do is place some clay pot chips or pebbles on the bottom of the pot. This keeps the water from draining out too fast and drying out your plants too quickly.

After you’ve prepared your new pot, put in about one inch of fresh potting soil. Take your plant and gently loosen the dirt around the roots of the plant. Don’t be too timid when doing this, and work quickly so that you aren’t exposing the roots to the air any longer than necessary. By spreading the roots, you are giving them a head start in their new growth pattern. The quicker the roots grow, the quicker they will give energy to the houseplant.

Now put the plant into the new container, adding or subtracting dirt to keep the plant at an attractive container height. Now fill the pot with fresh potting soil all around the plant, firmly packing it down until it’s all about level close to one-half inch below the top of the pot. Water the plant thoroughly with warmish water, allowing the water to drain through at least twice, this makes sure the roots get a good soaking.

Place your plant in a nice sunny location. For a day or two the plant may look a bit droopy due to transplant shock, but keeping it in a location that suits its needs should have it looking better than ever in a couple of days. If you feel that your plant is not recovering from the transplanting, you may want to go to your local nursery and purchase some root-toner and conditioner and apply as directed. Your newly transplanted houseplants should grow and thrive in their new conditions and you will feel proud of your new skills in taking care of your beloved plants.

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